At Zalmira, craftsmanship is at the heart of everything we do. Our jackets are more than just garments—they are a statement of elegance, quality, and meticulous attention to detail. One of the finest materials in menswear, worsted wool, is central to our creations, offering unparalleled durability, sophistication, and refinement. The name, as sometimes happens with things that are invented, originates from Worstead, England, a 12th-century weaving hub known for producing fine wool fabrics. Whether you're looking for a timeless business suit, a lightweight travel blazer, or a structured formal jacket, understanding worsted wool will help you make the best fabric choice.
This guide is designed to take you through the essentials of worsted wool: what makes it unique, how it’s processed, and why it remains a benchmark for luxury tailoring. With this knowledge, you’ll be able to distinguish high-quality worsted wool and select the best fabric for your needs.
What Makes Worsted Wool Exceptional?
Renowned for its smooth texture, durability, and timeless appeal, worsted wool stands apart from other fabrics in both feel and performance. Though many fabrics are technically considered worsted, their quality varies widely, depending on factors such as fiber selection, spinning techniques, and weaving structures. By understanding the key elements of worsted wool, you can ensure that your next tailored jacket meets the highest standards of craftsmanship.
Combed vs. Carded Yarns and Woolen vs. Worsted Fabrics
A crucial distinction in wool processing is between combed and carded yarns, as well as woolen vs. worsted fabrics. While these terms are sometimes used interchangeably, they refer to distinct aspects of fabric structure and feel.
Combed vs. Carded Yarns
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Combed Yarn:
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Made by removing short fibers, leaving only long-staple fibers.
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Produces a stronger, smoother, and more uniform yarn.
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Used for worsted wool fabrics, giving them a sleek, refined look.
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Carded Yarn:
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Retains both short and long fibers.
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Results in a softer, fuzzier, and bulkier yarn.
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Commonly used for woolen fabrics, offering warmth and elasticity.
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Woolen vs. Worsted Fabrics
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Woolen Fabrics:
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Made from carded yarns.
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Contain more air pockets, making them lightweight, warm, and soft.
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Have a slightly fuzzy texture due to short fibers protruding.
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Examples: Flannel, tweed, melton wool.
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Example of Wool & Cashmere woolen fabric utilised for Zalmira Jackets
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Worsted Fabrics:
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Made from combed yarns.
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Are dense, smooth, and strong, providing excellent drape and durability.
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Offer a subtle sheen, making them ideal for formalwear.
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Examples: Gabardine, serge, high-twist tropical wool, hopsack.
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Example of luxurious worsted wool fabric - Super 150s - utilised for Zalmira Jackets
Understanding this distinction is essential when selecting fabrics, as it determines their appearance, durability, and performance in different conditions.
The Worsted Wool Manufacturing Process
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Combing: Short fibers are removed, leaving only long, high-quality strands.
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Reduction: The fiber diameter is refined for consistency.
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Dyeing: The wool is dyed in bulk or printed using the vigoureux technique.
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Spinning: Wool is spun into yarn; adjusting tension and twist affects weight, texture, and durability.
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Weaving: The yarn is woven into fabric.
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Finishing: The cloth undergoes treatments to enhance softness and performance.
Each stage plays a crucial role in ensuring the superior quality of the fabric used in Zalmira jackets.
Does Lighter Worsted Mean Better Quality?
Not necessarily. Many assume lighter fabrics with higher Super Numbers are superior, but this is misleading. The Super Number only indicates fiber fineness, not quality, weave structure, or weight.
Most worsted fabrics today range from 180–300 grams per meter. A practical minimum for durability is 210 grams per meter.
Lighter Fabric ≠ Cooler Fabric
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A heavy open-weave fresco is cooler than a light, tightly woven Super 150 fabric in warm weather.
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Interlining and canvas significantly impact breathability and comfort.
Understanding Super Numbers (Super 100s, 120s, 150s, etc.)
Origins of Super Numbers:
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18th-century British wool merchants classified wool subjectively (e.g., "Fine," "Super").
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The Bradford System introduced a numeric scale based on how many hanks (560-yard yarn strands) could be spun from one pound of wool.
| Super Number | Max Fiber Diameter (µm) |
|---|---|
| Super 80s | 19.75 |
| Super 100s | 18.75 |
| Super 120s | 17.75 |
| Super 150s | 16.25 |
| Super 200s | 13.75 |
Modern Super Numbers:
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Due to advanced breeding, fibers under 14 microns exist, exceeding the original Bradford scale.
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Different brands use varying Super Number systems, making direct comparisons difficult.
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Reputable mills adhere to the IWTO Fabric Labeling Code.
Key Takeaways:
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Super Numbers indicate fiber fineness, not fabric quality.
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Higher Super fabrics are rarer and more expensive but not always more durable.
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Only pure new wool fabrics can use the "Super" label.
Popular Worsted Weaves & Patterns
Worsted fabrics come in various weaves and patterns:
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Plain weave (fresco, barathea)
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Twill weave (gabardine, herringbone, chalk stripe)
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Basket weave (hopsack)
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Popular patterns (solid, Prince of Wales check, sharkskin, houndstooth)
Hopsack, in particular, is an open, breathable weave that makes for excellent blazers and summer suits. Its subtle texture and resistance to wrinkles make it a popular choice for travel-friendly menswear.
A future guide will explore these in depth.
Final Thoughts
Worsted wool remains the foundation of fine menswear. Whether you need a jacket for daily wear or a bespoke commission, understanding fabric weight, weave, and quality markers ensures an informed decision.
At Zalmira, we believe in quality without compromise. Our worsted wool jackets reflect our dedication to craftsmanship and timeless style.
